Frank Fellous

Interview by Glenn Sakamoto

Frank Fellous is a talented French-born surfer/photographer who has a special interest in California culture from the 50s to the 70s. An annual visit to San Onofre, California affords Frank the unique opportunity to document today’s surf scene, and its myriad characters, with his vintage film Leica rangefinder. We spoke with Frank to learn more.

Tell us a bit about yourself. Where did you grow up and what was your childhood like?

I was born in the suburbs of Paris in ‘67 in a Jewish family from both Eastern Europe and North Africa. Shortly after, we moved to a little village very close to Normandy and Brittany for six years, then we moved back to Paris. I grew up playing tennis on clay courts almost every day before and after school.

My grandparents lived in Cannes, so we spent summers at the beach, playing tennis tournaments with the whole family all along the Mediterranean coast. Every summer, I had the chance to go to music Jazz Festivals (Jazz à Juan, Nice Jazz Festival), where I saw Jorge Ben, Baden Powell, Keith Jarret, Sarah Vaughn, Miles Davis, Ray Charles, Stan Getz and many more. My parents eventually got an RV and we've started to travel more, playing tennis tournaments and visiting the country.

What attracted you to surfing? 

My first sensation of the glide came from playing tennis on a clay court. I think doing a classic one-handed backhand on clay court has some similarities with surfing. Also, I used to snowboard a lot for ten years from the late eighties. 

I'm a big fan of 50’s, 60’s, 70’s American and Californian culture. This mix and my attraction for the outdoors led me naturally to surfing. I caught my first waves in my late twenties, but started to surf more often fifteen years ago. 

My first surf trip to California was in 2006, I’ve been to San O every summer and most winters since then. A few years ago, I bought a van, converted it in a camper van, and parked it in a garage in Biarritz. Now, on most weekends, I can take the train to the south west, and spend time surfing and gathering with my friends.

What inspired you to pursue photography? 

I’ve worked as a graphic designer, art director and still work in visual communication. Image and photography are part of my life. For my personal work, I was inspired by the things I like: travels, live music, street and beach life, mid-century design and architecture.

At the beginning, my inspiration came from music photographers. I had a subscription to Rolling Stone, and Annie Leibovitz was the chief photographer. I always looked for the photographers that were in magazines and in the covers or booklets of my favorite albums so I discovered the work of Guy Le Querrec, Dominique Tarlé, Joel Bernstein, Henry Diltz, Danny Clinch, Mick Rock, etc.

For my road trip photos, I was inspired by albums of Bruce Springsteen: Nebraska, The River and the Ghost of Tom Joad. I’m also a fan of French and American street photographers, Cartier Bresson, Willy Ronis, Joel Meyerowitz, Stephen Shore, etc. Annie Leibovitz, American Music, Robert Frank, The Americans, Stephen Shore, Road Trip journal and Joel Meyerowitz, Cape Light are my classic non-surfing favorite photo books.

You shoot primarily film and with a rangefinder. How did you make that choice? 

I have worked in the digital world for more than 30 year now and I shoot digital stills and video almost every day for work. For a personal hobby, I want something easier and different than my everyday tool, so I can focus on the subject. I’m also colour blind and I hate to deal with color correction and post-production.

With film, you get the colours or the shades of gray that the film stock gives you. I was used to shooting music concerts in low light. Digital noise was a big issue back then, but pushed film grain even at 3200 ISO and it was beautiful.

I've got my first camera, an Olympus OM1, as a Bar Mitzvah present in 1980. I still shoot with this camera regularly which I keep in my van permanently. The ergonomics and controls are very similar to my rangefinder. It's not necessarily the rangefinder system that I enjoy the most but some of the pros of the system: it’s basic, very quiet, compact, feels very good in hands, and lenses are beautiful and compact too. Lastly, a bunch of my favorite photographers have been shooting with the same camera since the fifties, though mine has built-in lightmeter.

What are you looking for when you bring your camera with you? 

I’m looking to catch the nice atmospheres and scenes that seem like they took place decades ago. Then I try to find clean lines and a framing that I like. It can be a scene of life, a beach scene with friends, old cars and buildings, old theatres, famous recording studios, sign paintings, etc.

I mostly bring my cameras when I'm on vacation. I don’t make a living from my photography, so I don’t have any pressure, it’s just pure fun. I often bring it also when I travel for work, I try to have a few days before or after a job to explore the country or the neighbourhood. Last year, for example, I had a job in Atlanta and did a two-day road trip around Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia and Mississippi.

You are an annual fixture at San Onofre. How do you make that work with your busy work schedule?

As you probably know, Paris is almost shut down in August and at the end of the year around Christmas and New Year. Most of our clients take vacation. In case, I have to work, I can work remotely unless I don’t have to manage on-site production in France. Also, spending summers in California is very inspiring for my regular work, and good to practice and  improve my English.

Who are some of the folks you admire in surfing culture ?

For someone who grew up in a city with no ocean, surf culture came first from movies, magazines, books and later on from internet.

Bruce Brown for Endless Summer, the surfing, the locations, the music theme and the iconic poster. Thomas Campbell for his masterpieces the Seedling and Sprout, their cast of surfers and choice of music and musicians. Bud Browne, for movies and his footage of Phil Edwards. Paul Witzig for its trilogy and his brother John for documenting Australian surfing. Leroy Grannis, for his photos of San Onofre, Palos Verdes and Midget Farrely at Makaha.

George Greenough for his designs in surfcrafts, and innovations in filmmaking. Joel Tudor for bringing back the classic surfing, starting the Duct Tape Invitational, and making the Surf Book with Michael Halsband. Linda Benson, Marge Calhoun, Rell Sunn, Kassia Meador for their contribution to women’s surfing. Phil Edwards, Skip Frye, Donald Takayama, Renny Yater, Bob McTavish for both their surfing and their shapes that are still relevant today. Joe Quigg  for designing modern boards, smooth and easy or easier to ride. David Nuuhiwa, Paul Strauch, Midget Farrelly, Gerry Lopez for their iconic surfing.

Finally, a diversity of talents that I’ve met over the years at San O: Brian Bent, JJ and Nat Wessels, Andy Nieblas, Makala Smith and many more. Also Clovis Donizetti, French style master for his surfing and his friendship, always kind to share his strong knowledge in surfing culture and history and a small community of surfers, shapers, photographers, writers in Biarritz.

What boards are you currently riding? What do you like about them? 

In California: Jim Phillips Pig, 7’10 Tyler Warren Function Hull, and a 6’10 Christenson C Bucket. In France: Lance Carson 60’s Classic Pintail, Hobie Phil Edwards, 8’0 Christenson C Bucket, 7’0 Josh Hall Egg and a 5’10 Josh Hall Keel fin fish.

Regarding my boards, I like that they are both classic and functional. They allow me to catch waves easily, make smooth turns and glide nicely, I have fun and I love my boards. I also always have a surf mat and fins with me in my van or when I travel for work or on a short trip and I can’t bring any surfboards. I just got a custom one from G-Mat that I’m really excited to try once the travel ban ends.

Sorry but we have to ask, what is your favorite food and what are you listening to? 

I will say Japanese (sushi, soba, udon…) and Israeli food (hummus foul, sabich, falafels). As far as music, if you listen to The Rolling Stones, Townes Van Zandt, CSNY, Carole King, Lou Reed, Nina Simone, Sam Cooke and Wu Tang Clan Radios on Spotify, you can get a pretty good idea of what I like. You can also add Serge Gainsbourg to the mix.

What's next for Frank Fellous ?

Who knows what’s next for everyone this year? Once the lockdown ends, I'll go back to Biarritz on weekends and hopefully to California again this summer. Also, I was supposed to move to New York very soon, but all our operations in the states have been cancelled or postponed until September, so by then I hope to make the move.

To learn more, follow Frank Fellous on Instagram @frankfelixf or find him throughout the year hanging at San Onofre State Beach.